During one of my many trawls through the internet to find inspiration for my construction projects, I stumbled across a picture of a small set of shelves that looked like a set of mini steps. These shelves had 2 plant pots on them and this gave me an idea. With a little bit of tinkering with the design I could create a larger version for more plants. This is the subject of todays project.
I found some old tongue and groove in the shed that would be perfect for the legs and shelf arms and also would make good bracers. I also had some lengths of rough pine and these would serve as shelf battens.
The first task was to cut the legs and set the others at an angle. To do this I cut the straight back legs and then decided on the distance between the front and back legs. This needed to be big enough to stop the whole thing being top heavy and toppling over. I settled on a distance of approximately 800mm. Now all I had to do was figure out how to cut the angles on the front sloping leg. To do this I put the straight leg on top of a long piece of tongue and groove, set the gap between what would be the bottom of the legs and then marked off at the top where they crossed. To get the bottom of the sloping leg accurate I placed a further piece of wood across the two and used that as a guide. To ensure I had the straight edge completely square I used the 3-4-5 rule which is basically Pythagorean Theorem. Now I am not going to blind you with science but I doubt there is a carpenter or fitter alive who hasn’t used this trick of making sure something is square. The rule is this. On one side of a corner, measure 300mm from the corner and mark it off. On the opposite side of the corner, measure 400mm from the corner and mark it off. If the distance between the two marks, when measured, is 500mm then the corner is square. Quite simple when you think about it and also very handy to the amateur craftsman.
Next thing was to mark where the straight edge crossed the sloping leg and cut the wood to suit, repeating this process for the other side as there needs to be two sets of legs. One set would just be silly.
Joining these legs was a problem I solved by deciding that the shelf arms would hold everything together. I then cut three pieces of tongue and groove and clamped them in place on the legs. The placement of these shelf arms was completely arbitrary. One had to be at the top so the tops of the legs could join to it and one had to be at the bottom but far enough off the ground to be of some actual use. The third one was set between the two. Once I had drilled, countersunk and screwed all the bits together and repeated this for the opposite side (remembering to mirror the first leg unit) I set about cutting the actual shelf battens. I didn’t want to make the shelves too deep so that they overhung each other as this would make the storing of taller plants a bit redundant. Instead I wanted the back of the lower shelf to finish where the front of the above shelf started. You can adjust this to your personal preference, of course, but for my first attempt, this is the way I wanted it to go. I used 30mm x 30mm pine for these with a 4mm hole drilled and countersunk in each end.
Once I had cut the battens and was about to attach them to the shelf arms I encountered the problem of actually fixing them to the leg units because the legs kept falling over. As I only had one pair of hands, I solved this by cutting some bracers for the back of the legs to hold everything in place. This would’ve had to have been done eventually as the complete unit would’ve been very unstable without them. I just didn’t think that I’d have to do it this early. Better planning, next time...
Finally, I decided that the top of the unit needing boxing off. It wasn’t totally necessary to do so but I just wanted to make the unit look a bit more polished. A few pieces of tongue and groove drilled and screwed in place and I was done.
This project could easily be adapted to suit any garden space you have and also altered to have more shelves, depending on the use. It was a fun thing to build and took me a little over a couple of hours to complete. Maybe next time I will make some smaller versions like the one that inspired me.
Friday, 26 August 2011
Friday, 19 August 2011
The Humble Planter
I thought it would be good to bring everything back to a basic level, today, and make a something simple.
The humble planter is a much loved thing and can be very helpful if you are operating on a budget of either money or space. It can easily increase the places in which you can grow things if you don’t own a garden as such and can also create a better looking patio.
If, like me, you find yourself in DIY and hardware stores on a regular basis then you will have noticed the planters that they invariably sell. These might not be to your liking for many a reason. Overpriced, crap quality or simply not suitable for the space you have. This blog entry will show you a quick and easy way to make a very simple planter that is approximately 350mm x 250mm and 150mm deep. These sizes are, of course, external.
Once I had rooted about in the shed and procured the timber that I’d need I set about marking and cutting the parts. What follows is a list of ingredients, if you will...
50mm x 18mm x 350mm - 6 off for the long sides.
50mm x 18mm x 250mm - 6 off for the short sides.
50mm x 18mm x 386mm - 5 off for the base.
20mm x 35mm x 150mm - 4 off for the inside posts.
20mm x 35mm x 220mm - 2 off for the feet.
All lengths are cut from pine.
The easiest place to start with this model of planter is the short side. Taking 3 of the 6 short lengths, drill and countersink a 4mm hole in the ends of each at 18mm in. Then, using a quick clamp or similar device, clamp them together, ensuring they are lined up with each other. Take 2 of the 4 inside posts, secure them to the 3 boards with 4mm x 30mm general purpose screws. Repeat the process for the other short end.
The next step is to do the same with the long sides but the end holes are drilled at 28mm in from the ends. Using a quick clamp to secure 3 of them together, and standing the 2 short end sections on a workbench, secure the long side to them. Then flip the whole thing over and screw the last 3 long pieces to the opposite side. The result is a sturdy box shape which now needs a base and a couple of feet.
The base, I think, doesn’t need to be screwed on as nails would serve just as good a purpose. Plus, once the planter is filled with soil and plants, it wouldn’t be doing much in the way of moving. Also the pine is only 18mm thick and you don’t want an errant screw to make a bid for freedom out of the side.
Take the final 5 pieces, quick clamp them, place them on the bottom of the box shape and nail it down using lost head nails. You can then do the same thing for the 2 feet, fixing them at roughly equal distances away from the edge of the outer edges.
Voila, a finished planter. All you need to do now is to line it and then plant in it. Expensive liner material is pretty pointless as a good quality bin liner works as well. Cut it to size, fill the planter with compost and await flowery glory!
The planter took me about an hour to complete and the design is such that it can be adapted for any size or shape. I may even make my next one to incorporate different levels!
The humble planter is a much loved thing and can be very helpful if you are operating on a budget of either money or space. It can easily increase the places in which you can grow things if you don’t own a garden as such and can also create a better looking patio.
If, like me, you find yourself in DIY and hardware stores on a regular basis then you will have noticed the planters that they invariably sell. These might not be to your liking for many a reason. Overpriced, crap quality or simply not suitable for the space you have. This blog entry will show you a quick and easy way to make a very simple planter that is approximately 350mm x 250mm and 150mm deep. These sizes are, of course, external.
Once I had rooted about in the shed and procured the timber that I’d need I set about marking and cutting the parts. What follows is a list of ingredients, if you will...
50mm x 18mm x 350mm - 6 off for the long sides.
50mm x 18mm x 250mm - 6 off for the short sides.
50mm x 18mm x 386mm - 5 off for the base.
20mm x 35mm x 150mm - 4 off for the inside posts.
20mm x 35mm x 220mm - 2 off for the feet.
All lengths are cut from pine.
The easiest place to start with this model of planter is the short side. Taking 3 of the 6 short lengths, drill and countersink a 4mm hole in the ends of each at 18mm in. Then, using a quick clamp or similar device, clamp them together, ensuring they are lined up with each other. Take 2 of the 4 inside posts, secure them to the 3 boards with 4mm x 30mm general purpose screws. Repeat the process for the other short end.
The next step is to do the same with the long sides but the end holes are drilled at 28mm in from the ends. Using a quick clamp to secure 3 of them together, and standing the 2 short end sections on a workbench, secure the long side to them. Then flip the whole thing over and screw the last 3 long pieces to the opposite side. The result is a sturdy box shape which now needs a base and a couple of feet.
The base, I think, doesn’t need to be screwed on as nails would serve just as good a purpose. Plus, once the planter is filled with soil and plants, it wouldn’t be doing much in the way of moving. Also the pine is only 18mm thick and you don’t want an errant screw to make a bid for freedom out of the side.
Take the final 5 pieces, quick clamp them, place them on the bottom of the box shape and nail it down using lost head nails. You can then do the same thing for the 2 feet, fixing them at roughly equal distances away from the edge of the outer edges.
Voila, a finished planter. All you need to do now is to line it and then plant in it. Expensive liner material is pretty pointless as a good quality bin liner works as well. Cut it to size, fill the planter with compost and await flowery glory!
The planter took me about an hour to complete and the design is such that it can be adapted for any size or shape. I may even make my next one to incorporate different levels!
Tuesday, 16 August 2011
Book planter
Trawling through the internet, which I do quite regularly, I stumbled across a website that showed the work of an Italian site called Gartenkultur. As I don’t speak Italian I was unable to understand anything that was on the page! I was, however, able to figure out the pictures. It showed old books being used to house plants. Quite an interesting idea.
Now, this did inspire me to create my own version of this. I didn’t just want to copy what I saw, I wanted to add my own unique twist to it. This meant that I had to insert some humour into the design such as putting a Trumpet Pitcher plant into a copy of Day of the Triffids by John Wyndham or a Cactus into a book on the Mojave desert. The first of my attempts, though, was to grow a peace lilly in an old copy of that Leo Tolstoy classic, War and Peace. It’s that level of humour that you will come to know and love!
To start, I had to create a rectangular trough. Cutting through most of the pages of a book, especially one as long as War and Peace, can be a most boring pursuit. I suggest putting some music on or getting a loved one to serenade you with a medley of songs, anything to alleviate the boredom of cutting about 1300 pages! Patience is a virtue and it will be rewarded eventually.
The tools I used were a sharp Stanley knife, a steel ruler and a cutting mat.
Once the trough had been cut, the next step is to seal it. There are a couple of ways to do this. You could either source a plastic dish that is roughly the same dimensions or you could seal the pages with PVA glue. This is by far the easier option and doesn’t necessitate trawling the shops to find a suitable pot.
A couple of coats is sufficient to create a waterproof barrier. Leave it to dry for as long as possible before attempting to stick soil in it!
The final stage in the planter design is to create a hole in the book cover. I settled on a simple circle as I didn’t want to lose the majority of the cover in trying to match the trough I’d created inside the book.
And that’s it, finished. Once you have transplanted whatever it is that’s going into the book you could cover the top with small pea gravel just to add an extra visual dimension.
Now, this did inspire me to create my own version of this. I didn’t just want to copy what I saw, I wanted to add my own unique twist to it. This meant that I had to insert some humour into the design such as putting a Trumpet Pitcher plant into a copy of Day of the Triffids by John Wyndham or a Cactus into a book on the Mojave desert. The first of my attempts, though, was to grow a peace lilly in an old copy of that Leo Tolstoy classic, War and Peace. It’s that level of humour that you will come to know and love!
To start, I had to create a rectangular trough. Cutting through most of the pages of a book, especially one as long as War and Peace, can be a most boring pursuit. I suggest putting some music on or getting a loved one to serenade you with a medley of songs, anything to alleviate the boredom of cutting about 1300 pages! Patience is a virtue and it will be rewarded eventually.
The tools I used were a sharp Stanley knife, a steel ruler and a cutting mat.
Once the trough had been cut, the next step is to seal it. There are a couple of ways to do this. You could either source a plastic dish that is roughly the same dimensions or you could seal the pages with PVA glue. This is by far the easier option and doesn’t necessitate trawling the shops to find a suitable pot.
A couple of coats is sufficient to create a waterproof barrier. Leave it to dry for as long as possible before attempting to stick soil in it!
The final stage in the planter design is to create a hole in the book cover. I settled on a simple circle as I didn’t want to lose the majority of the cover in trying to match the trough I’d created inside the book.
And that’s it, finished. Once you have transplanted whatever it is that’s going into the book you could cover the top with small pea gravel just to add an extra visual dimension.
Monday, 15 August 2011
iPlanter
Let me preface this blog post with a disclaimer and also a possible plea. I am not trying to infringe upon Apple’s world domination and claim to the prefix ‘i’, so please, Steve Jobs, do not sue me for every penny I don’t have!
Now that’s dealt with, onto the blog!
Sitting at home, one day, I was day dreaming about my next planter project. I am trying to find weird and wonderful places and objects in which to plant flowers and as my eyes panned across the room, they settled on an old, broken, no longer working G4 PowerMac.
My creative brain immediately kicked into gear. I knew that it would be a waste to just dump the thing at the local waste disposal site as it would make an ace thing to stick plants or flowers in.
I adjourned to the workshop and set about removing all the now useless electronics. I didn’t want to just rip the guts out willy nilly as I’m sure I can make something out of them, eventually. I also kept all the screws, too, as it’s never a bad idea to have a wide selection of fixings.
The huge aluminium heat sink was first, then the motherboard, then the power supply and then all the final bits like the hard drive. This left a rather empty space which I would soon fill with soil and plants. Well, someone else will fill it with that stuff. I’m a good craftsman but I’m not no botanist!
The next job was to remove the top plastic cover and mark out where I would be cutting a hole in the top. This would be another chance to get my angle grinder out. Any excuse...
By cutting a hole in the top I knew that I would mess with the locking mechanism on the side panel. This would mean I’d have to find a way to keep the side panel closed. Cable ties solved this problem. Wonderful invention is the cable tie. Solves many fixing problems. Top tip!
I marked a rectangle on the top that left a good solid border of the metal frame and broke out the cutting disc.
*Safety Alert*
Remember folks, safe use of power tools is a must. Ensure all power cables are away from any cutting device, wear the appropriate safety gear such as goggles and ear defenders and ensure that there’s no chance of the sparks igniting anything.
Safety alert over!
Once the hole had been cut and the edges smoothed, I looked at my handy work. Something was missing. I could envision plants being in the now gutted G4 but there were too many holes in the box. Ventilation holes, connection ports, etc. I gave it some thought and decided upon a removable box design. Using some left over ship lap tongue and groove and some 30mm square pine, I constructed a quick box, threw some rope handles on to the ends of the pine posts and inserted it into the G4.
Voila, the iPlanter is finished.
Hexagonal Planter
So there I was, in the shed, thinking that I was getting a little bored with a rectangular planter shape. I wanted something a bit different just to break with tradition. Without spending loads of time working out designs and wasting wood, I just decided to stick 2 extra corners into the normal design and thus the hexagonal planter was born.
Starting something like this is much the same as any other planter except that I had to break out the mathematical portion of my brain to work out the angles needed to cut the wood at. I had to do this as I couldn’t find a protractor. Who on earth has a protractor when they are no longer in school? Not me!
The angles would be 60˚, seeing as 6 into 360˚ = 60˚. How to mark that out? An equilateral triangle is the way, obviously. I say obviously like I knew what the hell to do. It was actually my girlfriend who told me that, all the time looking at me like I was a bit mental. As usual.
So an easy way to mark out an equilateral triangle is to mark a straight line at, say, 100mm. Next, mark another line at 90˚ to that at halfway along the line. Then mark 2 more lines from the ends of the 1st 100mm line up to where they meet the second line. All 3 lines will measure 100mm and the 3 angles will be 60˚. I’ve made it sound more complex than it actually is but you get the picture. At least I hope you do...
I spent the next few minutes gathering timber ready for the cutting process. I wanted to make the planter out of 20mm thick pine and give it 10 layers, which results in 60 pieces. I then spent the next 30 minutes marking and cutting as I went. The beautiful thing is that I have a sliding mitre saw which makes cutting wood such a breeze. If I had to do all of the 60 pieces by hand then I may have gone a bit nuts. Also the edges might not have been as straight as they could’ve been. I think the former was the more important reason for using the mitre saw!
To make the base I used some ship lap tongue and groove that I had left over from the old shed in which my workbench once resided. I clamped 3 pieces together, drew out a quick outline for the planter walls and set about screwing the first layer down using 30mm general purpose screws. The next step was to cut around the edge of the first layer and place the waste wood neatly in the waste wood box. I keep all my off-cut pieces that are of no real use for any project as we have an open fire and there’s nothing like sitting in front of one of those on a cold night.
The rest of the layers didn’t need to be screwed down, mainly because I didn’t want to waste a load of screws. Lost head nails would do just as good a job and also wouldn’t necessitate the use of a drill bit and a countersink bit. I’m all for making my life easier!
So, hammer in hand, I nailed all the rest of the wood down, making sure that each layer crossed over opposite to the one underneath. This would make the planter more secure and solid and it’d look very cool, too.
After a short while, the planter was finished. I added a couple of feet on the bottom just to raise it off the floor a little and then gave it a couple of coats of wood stain. The next job is to throw a bunch of plants in it and set about my next design. Suggestions for any other designs are most welcome!
Starting something like this is much the same as any other planter except that I had to break out the mathematical portion of my brain to work out the angles needed to cut the wood at. I had to do this as I couldn’t find a protractor. Who on earth has a protractor when they are no longer in school? Not me!
The angles would be 60˚, seeing as 6 into 360˚ = 60˚. How to mark that out? An equilateral triangle is the way, obviously. I say obviously like I knew what the hell to do. It was actually my girlfriend who told me that, all the time looking at me like I was a bit mental. As usual.
So an easy way to mark out an equilateral triangle is to mark a straight line at, say, 100mm. Next, mark another line at 90˚ to that at halfway along the line. Then mark 2 more lines from the ends of the 1st 100mm line up to where they meet the second line. All 3 lines will measure 100mm and the 3 angles will be 60˚. I’ve made it sound more complex than it actually is but you get the picture. At least I hope you do...
I spent the next few minutes gathering timber ready for the cutting process. I wanted to make the planter out of 20mm thick pine and give it 10 layers, which results in 60 pieces. I then spent the next 30 minutes marking and cutting as I went. The beautiful thing is that I have a sliding mitre saw which makes cutting wood such a breeze. If I had to do all of the 60 pieces by hand then I may have gone a bit nuts. Also the edges might not have been as straight as they could’ve been. I think the former was the more important reason for using the mitre saw!
To make the base I used some ship lap tongue and groove that I had left over from the old shed in which my workbench once resided. I clamped 3 pieces together, drew out a quick outline for the planter walls and set about screwing the first layer down using 30mm general purpose screws. The next step was to cut around the edge of the first layer and place the waste wood neatly in the waste wood box. I keep all my off-cut pieces that are of no real use for any project as we have an open fire and there’s nothing like sitting in front of one of those on a cold night.
The rest of the layers didn’t need to be screwed down, mainly because I didn’t want to waste a load of screws. Lost head nails would do just as good a job and also wouldn’t necessitate the use of a drill bit and a countersink bit. I’m all for making my life easier!
So, hammer in hand, I nailed all the rest of the wood down, making sure that each layer crossed over opposite to the one underneath. This would make the planter more secure and solid and it’d look very cool, too.
After a short while, the planter was finished. I added a couple of feet on the bottom just to raise it off the floor a little and then gave it a couple of coats of wood stain. The next job is to throw a bunch of plants in it and set about my next design. Suggestions for any other designs are most welcome!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)